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Eating Out

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A 'wee huckster' of a country pub but with a fine restaurant menu

Billy Andy's, 66 Brow ndod Road, near Larne

Friday, 4 July 2008

In the back road of nowhere and once had no ladies' loo ... our reviewer returns to a fondly remembered watering hole which has changed vastly in recent years. However, with a superb menu these days, she really doesn't want you to find it

What we had?

Chianti £16.95

King scallops £5.95

Seared quail £4.95

Venison £16.75

Pork fillet £12.95

Vegetables £1.95

Champ £1.95

Garlic potatoes £1.95

Rhubarb crumble £3.95

Irish coffee x2 £7.00

Total

Tel: 2827 0648

Billy Andy's has been around for as long as I can remember, and has been a local watering hole for many more years than that. It was once a wee huckster of a country pub with no ladies' loo. That meant I didn't go there very often, and never for very long.

In more recent years, however, as we've become more sophisticated in our needs and wants, so the establishment has expanded. Not only do they have a ladies, but the premises have also expanded to include a fine restaurant. You can even sit out the back on a good evening and watch the sunset over the fields.

The front part of the building with its old tobacco signs retains its age old bar areas with open peat and log fires. Resonating with traditional music on the Saturday night we visited, it was just the sort of place your American relatives would love. And I'm sure you would, too.

The worst thing about Billy Andy's is finding it if you're not familiar with the area, located as it is on a back road somewhere between Larne and Carrickfergus. You might need your sat nav or there's a map if you Google it — but I'm not sure I want too many people to uncover its hiding place. I'd never remember to book well enough in advance if it becomes even more popular.

There was a bit of a draught from the air conditioner close to our table, but that was soon forgotten as our attention turned to the table.

I started with a plate of king scallops — a favourite with me — which were juicy and buttery and came with several sauces including apple and a pesto-style puree, excellent accompaniments. They were indeed a 'taster' and I was immediately filled with anticipation for the next course.

My husband chose seared confit of quail to begin with — a petite but flavoursome bird served with an artistic bundle of salad leaves which again whet the appetite.

Next up for me were tender slices of pork fillet, a dish which brings back fond childhood memories of home cooking. Instead of my mum's gravy, however, a perky pepper reduction and apple sauce wrapped in ever-so thin filo pastry. Very good indeed.

My companion opted for Finnobrogue venison with a juniper berry jus which he said, in between nods of the head, was excellent.

Side dishes included vegetables of bright green broccoli, sweet red cabbage and oven-roasted carrots. Along with the champ and garlic potatoes they were cooked to a T.

We were going to by-pass the desserts but when we caught a waft of the rhubarb crumble as it was carried to other tables, and saw the pinkish red juice bubble enticingly over the edge of the dish, my hubby decided he would have to have some.

It was gorgeous along with creme anglaise and its crunchy topping of toasted oats. (I refrained from a whole dessert, but of course had to have a sample of his and can also give it the stamp of approval.)

Our meal was rounded off beautifully with a great bottle of La Pieve chianti.

As I said, I secretly hope you can't find your way there.

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I recently visited the farmer that lives at Browndod Road and he told me that he supplies cabbage and lamb to Billy Andy's. I never would have thought there was a pub along that road until he mentioned it. It's really not that hard to find actually and I'm not from the area. I can't wait to give it a try.

Posted by G. Wells | 02.08.08, 16:06 GMT

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