Photosales
niJobfinder
niCarfinder
Home Delivery
Propertynews
Joris Minne: Thyme restaurant : Successor to Shanks sticks to quality
Monday, 2 February 2009
enlargeWhen one of the best chefs in the country dies tragically in a car accident, the successor attempting to fill his shoes is either brilliant or nuts.
Robbie Millar achieved a Michelin star for Shanks, one of Northern Ireland's holy trinity of top restaurants, alongside Cayenne and Deane's.
He was at the top of the heap, feted by the London and Dublin food critics and in great demand as a master to apprentice chefs from all over Ireland.
After Robbie died in August 2004, Shanks, just outside Bangor at Clandeboye's Blackwood Golf Club, closed down, the wine cellar was auctioned off and, ever so quietly, brave new owners moved in and Shanks became Thyme.
Thyme is a more laid-back affair than its predecessor. The owners are ex-Roscoff and Cayenne staff and they offer simpler menus, Sunday lunches at £19.50, and the kind of slick and cool service you can trace back to Paul Rankin.
They are not nuts and they want to be brilliant. They may be young — how old is chef Conor McCann, about 13? — but they remember Robbie Millar and his stringent quality standards. They, too, are sticking to the quality principles.
The menu changes frequently, with the occasional appearances of old favourites such as pork medallions, poached salmon and rib of beef. This might appear dull and traditional, but looks are deceptive.
You will, for instance, find the pork has been treated with a magic potion of rosemary and sage, the salmon steak to be organic and served in a rich cream veloute all rich and thick.
Irish roast beef is only Irish roast beef until it too is blessed by chef |McCann. His benediction includes careful timing, leaving the beef pink and tender accompanied by a red wine sauce and Yorkshire pudding (because it's Sunday) and leaves you wishing it would never end.
But this is north Down, so the more glamorous lobster frequently features prominently, as do scallops, quail in ravioli and other delights which are now accepted as every-day food if you come from north Down.
Thyme's kitchen is cheeky that way. You'll find granny and grandad delighted to see food they recognise on the menu, yet those of us who like to be surprised will be enchanted by the subtle adjustments made to the old reliables.
The same goes for the desserts. Simple red-wine poached pears take on an entirely new identity in the holy hands of McCann, but his forte is the panacotta, which is as good as any ever tasted in the top restaurants in Italy. This incredibly light, quivering, barely-there dessert is subtle yet immensely deep.
It's a moment of absolute joy for the diner and a display of brilliance by the kitchen.
The mood in Thyme is whatever you want it to be. I've seen it church-whisperingly calm on a Sunday afternoon when extended families take the grandparents out.
It's a peculiarity of eating out in Ireland – Sundays in Irish hotels and restaurants are as quiet and as busy as a confessional on Good Friday.
On the other hand,. Thyme on a Saturday night can be just the way it was in Robbie Millar's day.
Jovial at the start of the evening, the pitch rising as the claret and Chablis flows, the night ending with the whole place talking and shouting happily at each other.
Thyme has a way to go yet before it reaches the stars but the value-for-money to quality ratio is so well balanced that you'd be a fool to drive past it. Three-course Sunday lunch at £19.95 with a children's version at £8.50? It's worth the petrol you'll have to buy to get to the place.
- Text Size
had a very disappointing meal in thyme recently. It was a totally different experience from the first time we went, when we really enjoyed the food and the atmosphere. This time the food was uninterersting and very overpriced expecially as the portions were so poor. We were there for a celebration and felt let down about the whole experience. I have read previous reviews comparing thyme with such places as Deans, and i have to say in our experience there is definitely no comparasion.
Posted by j. milne | 01.12.08, 22:31 GMT
I agree with the other comments and would go as far to say that this is the best restaurant in Northern ireland.
The only downside is it off the beaten track. If this restaurant was in the city centre it would be booked up months in advance. when are you guys going to open up in the city.
Posted by Joanne Bowers | 10.10.08, 12:35 GMT
This place is seriously stunning the food is full of flavour and pitch perfect cooking allows the quality to shine through.
This has to be up there with deane's on quality of food but it's cheaper and friendlyer.
Well worth a drive out to. Keep up the good work
Posted by Tom Doorley | 08.10.08, 12:08 GMT
Completely agree. Was in Thyme a few weeks ago. Food was excellent and the service was inpecable. I highly recommend it.
Posted by gareth Geddis | 29.09.08, 09:21 GMT
I loved the way this article was so accurate and intertaining .
I have been fortunate to dine many times in Thyme restaurant, sometimes with my children and grandchildren and extended family, other times with friends and partner.
I have always enjoyed the food and the special attention provided by the staff who make me feel special.
This is what I love when I go out for a meal. Good food, good wine and good service. The writer has captured the true essence of Thyme Restaurant.
Well done.
Posted by Margaret Mc Crory | 28.09.08, 17:38 GMT