Nicola Formichetti wanted his debut Thierry Mugler collection to be about a “flawed superhuman”.
The stylist became creative director of the fashion brand last year, and has sought to create a splash with his first menswear collection. He picked Rick Genest, known as Rico, as his muse, someone he discovered on social networking website Facebook. Rico’s body is covered in skeletal tattoos, and he shot a video which was played at the show.
In it – stills of which were released before the show hit the catwalk in Paris yesterday - Rico is seen dressed in a dark overcoat and appearing to peel off his skin. Nicola explained this was his way of showing how he was marrying his aesthetic with that of Thierry Mugler’s.
“I was looking at a chink in the armour of the Mugler type in the clothing and the person,” he said in a press release. “Rico a sort of flawed superhuman — still extraordinary but not untouchable... I suppose if you wanted to look at Rico’s role in this he's like a literal, visual interpretation of what is under the skin as well as a celebration of what is covering it.”
The clothes included dark suits and jackets, with latex and plastic added to them. Men wore puffed overcoats with skin-tight latex gloves, while some had pieces of plastic covering their faces.
The show was hotly anticipated after it was revealed Lady Gaga was its musical director. While she wasn’t at the debut, she did praise Nicola in the show notes.
“Blood pumps through Nicola’s veins like perfume and cigarettes. His brain throbs with misfit royalty, glamour as punk survival, attitude as liberation, style as revolution,” she said. “Thierry Mugler has a way with legendary lifestyle and Nicola is just that: Epic Lifestyle, Freakdom, Gorgeous or Die, the ‘f**k’ in future poetry, the street in High-Fashion. Nicola Formichetti is Fashion’s Freedom. I love him, my friend the genius, my collaborator, more than any piece of clothing or closet I possess. But don’t tell him I said that, he’ll die. He picked them all out.”