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Take a walk on dark side as sombre shades come into fashion

Gothic gorgeousness, eccentric eyeliner and a healthy dose of glitter: AW16 brings a bounty of beauty inspiration. Katie Wright provides a rundown of the season's best hair and make-up trends

Published 07/09/2016

Lip sync: a model sports Marni’s dark-lipped look
Lip sync: a model sports Marni’s dark-lipped look
Eyes right: a model with heavy eyeliner backstage at AW 2016

A new fashion season is upon us, but it's not just a clothes shopping list you should be compiling. Make-up artists were in their element at the AW16 shows, on the one hand creating spellbinding looks to match the dramatic fashion collections, on the other letting models' natural beauty shine through.

Whichever route you take for autumn, these are the beauty trends to take home, and the tools you need to achieve them.

The classic red lip took a back seat this season, as a dozen designers opted for sombre shades, from burgundy to blackcurrant.

At Gareth Pugh and Max Mara, oxblood lips were lacquered with vinyl gloss, at Marni and Mary Katrantzou they were matter than matte, while at Marc Jacobs, models (including Lady Gaga) were painted with jet black lipstick.

So the only question is, how dark do you dare to go?

YSL Beauty Vernis a Levres Vinyl Cream, £26 (available September 7; www.yslbeauty.co.uk).

n Mastered the cat-eye flick? Good; it's time to take your eyeliner game to the next level, inspired by the graphic depictions on the autumn catwalks.

Start with Oscar de la Renta's dense squared flick, then take on Kenzo's negative space wing, before graduating to Giamba's heavy punk-inspired liquid look.

Use any colour you like - as long as it's black.

Too Faced Sketch Marker in Charcoal Black, £17 (www.debenhams.com).

The biggest beauty surprise of the AW16 shows had editors gasping: "Glitter? On the Burberry catwalk?"

But of course, the storied house found a way to make the dazzling dust look chic and edgy - and they weren't the only ones.

At Charlotte Olympia, scarlet eyes shone; gold glowed at Emanuel Ungaro; and at Giambattista, a skinny silver brow looked thoroughly modern.

MAC Good Luck Trolls Reflects Glitter in Transparent Teal, £17.50 (www.maccosmetics.co.uk).

Last season saw hair stylists put down the straighteners - and by all indications, they haven't picked them up again, as more models than ever were allowed to let their natural curls loose.

At Celine, Isabel Marant and Alexander Wang, the hair looks were adapted to suit each girl, while at Opening Ceremony and Marc Jacobs, retro finger waves were created. So even if you've got poker-straight hair, this season you can show off your curves.

Fudge Curve Maker, £14.95 (available in September; www.fudgehair.co.uk).

Against a canvas of porcelain skin, flashes of colour stood out all the more brightly this season, from the aqua eyes at Thom Browne and Marques' Almeida to the 'explosions' of red at AF Vandevorst, and the matte magenta lip at Alexis Mabille.

This isn't about a technicoloured palette - choose one hue and apply with care.

MAC Eye Shadow in Atlantic Blue, £13 (www.maccosmetics.co.uk).

Encapsulating the duality of the season, when it comes to nails, your options are either pale and interesting (the putty shades as seen at Jason Wu, Stella McCartney and Dior), or the gloomy off-black hues seen at Rodarte and Vivienne Westwood.

Nailberry L'Oxygene in Blackberry, £13.50 (www.nailberry.co.uk)

When is a trend not a trend? When it's all about showcasing each girl as an individual.

The 'be yourself' mantra was in evidence at Topshop, Victoria Beckham and Gucci, where make-up was customised for each model, and a handful of other Milan shows.

At most, lipstick was eschewed to let the natural lip colour show through, so a nourishing balm becomes your new season essential.

La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Barrier Repairing Balm, currently reduced to £4.50 from £6 (FeelUnique.com).

Belfast Telegraph

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