Belfast Telegraph

YSL present weather-inspired PFW show

Yves Saint Laurent ditched traditional Spring/Summer colours during its Paris Fashion Week show yesterday.

The iconic label is helmed by Stefano Pilati, although there are rumours he may be leaving in the not too distant future.

Those were put aside yesterday though, so he could show his Spring/Summer 12 offering.

The Paris collections have largely been monochrome, with the odd pop of brighter hues. Yves Saint Laurent bucked the trend though, going for jewel colours like purple, blue and green.

According to WWD the designer was inspired by the weather, and found it difficult to move out of the seasons where coldness is key.

So the hues were perhaps more suited to a Fall/Winter collection, but the clothes were still beautiful.

"Pilati built the collection around two primary fabrics, a tonal, textured jacquard with the look of sturdy lace and a gazarlike fabric called, coincidentally, Marrakesh. These determined a structured line up into which the designer incorporated considerable volume, particularly in jackets that stood away from the body and interesting dresses and tops with big sleeves," reports WWD.

The pencil skirt has been all over the recent round of catwalks, and this show was no different. It was seen in a pretty mid blue hue, paired with a mint green loose-fitting blouse and boasting a black waistband.

Other versions came in forest green and sported flared hems which swished around models' legs as they walked. The same dark green fabric was used to make a mini-dress with a full hem, again accessorised with a black belt. The only concession to the season this was created for was the capped sleeves it sported.

Another of the skirts was in jewel-toned purple, which had slits up the side and was paired with a silky midnight blue top with ruffled shoulder sleeves. Again this came with a black belt, an accessory as ubiquitous as the red lipstick the models wore.

Trousers were cropped and sprayed on, with a silver version paired with a loosely-draped vest top. It featured a V-neck and beautifully crafted collar, making it almost looks like a tuxedo jacket minus the sleeves.

For evening there were two distinct looks. For the more casual fashion fan the designer came up with his own pattern, which was a modern take on paisley. Maxi-skirts were made from it and worked with tailored white shirts and black belts, while dresses also came in the print.

For those looking for something dressier, there were black jumpsuits and black maxi-dresses slashed to the naval and covered in gold sequins and glitter.

By contrast, Chloé's collection was light and fresh. There was a lot of white present, and where colour was used it tended to be pale and almost pastel-like.

To hammer home the Spring/Summer season, designer Clare Waight Keller used a flower print which was present on tops and on the sides of shorts and trousers.

White wasn't the only key trend included in the presentation. The fashion house also went big on pleats, which have been all over the catwalk this time round. The show started with long pleated white dresses, where the edges of the fabric was dipped in colour such as pale blue or orange.

Skirts were either mini or maxi, while trousers looked slouchy and comfortable. For those wanted a spot of colour, coral was the hue of the collection.

Emanuel Ungaro, Giambattista Valli and Vanessa Bruno also presented yesterday. Today sees collections by Chanel, Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, Alexander McQueen and Valentino hit the catwalk.

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