It's our kinda town

Transformed Belfast gets thumbs-up in new Lonely Planet guide

By Paul Reilly
Tuesday, 22 January 2008

The Lonely Planet travel bible today commended Belfast as an up-and-coming cosmopolitan city - but blasted some Ulster towns as "kitsch" and "lacking in charm".

The 8th edition of the Ireland guide, released this month, points out to travellers where's hot and where's not when visiting Northern Ireland.

Author of the guide, Fionn Davenport, was impressed by the emerging new face of Belfast

"Once lumped with Beirut, Baghdad and Bosnia as one of the four 'B's' for travellers to avoid, Belfast has pulled off a remarkable transformation," the guide says.

Lonely Planet welcomed Belfast's evolving, "in flux" skyline and embraced the city's new culture "from bombs and bullet pariah to hip hotels and hedonism party town".

Belfast deputy Lord Mayor Bernie Kelly said: "This is recognition of the very hard work done in improving Belfast through partnership with agencies such as Belfast city centre manager and the vistor centre,

"The hard work has paid off and there is still lots to look forward to, with Victoria Square opening and the emergence of the Cathedral Quarter, as a centre for arts".

The Northern Ireland attractions to gain the 'Blue list' seal of approval include coastal walks around the Giant's Causeway and the Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge.

Also mentioned is the West Belfast's black taxi tour which is, according to the book "leavened with a touch of black humour from the wise cracking drivers".

West Belfast is described as "one of the most compelling places to visit in Northern Ireland". And Belfast Zoo is also "one of the most appealing zoos in Britain and Ireland".

Despite being largely full of praise for Northern Ireland, Mr Davenport did attack Northern Ireland's sluggish reaction to green issues saying " Ireland's 40 shades of green don't include the all important eco-green" .

He pointed out the country's carbon footprint is "more than double the global average" and suggested recent polls have shown "the Irish are slightly less concerned about the environment than are the citizens of most other European countries"

Northern Ireland's only Green party MLA Brian Wilson: "This doesn't come as a shock, we have got to get our act together, we are very lax and the problem lies in not having an independent environment agency."

But the Lonely Planet guide highlights positive steps being taken in the province to become greener. It does, however, mistakenly praise Northern Ireland for following the lead of the Republic in introducing a plastic bag tax which has not happened.

What the guide has to say about towns across Ulster

Bangor is to Belfast what Brighton is to London, a Victorian seaside resort undergoing a renaissance as an out-of-town base for city commuters.

It is described as having a "kitsch tradition of British seaside towns" .

Larne provides "no real reason to linger" and is rendered as " lacking in the charm department".

Larne councillor Brian Dunn defended his town saying: "Two thirds of the Larne borough is an established area of outstanding natural beauty, we have many family run shops and cafes, offering excellent service, the town is great for day trips."

Londonderry is defined as "lagging behind Belfast in investment and redevelopment" and while not being "the prettiest of cities" the guide suggested a "determined air of can-do optimism has made it the powerhouse of cultural revival".

"No city is perfect" noted Derry City Centre Manager Sean Trainor, "But we are getting there, there is an air of confidence in the city and the can-do atmosphere does exist".

Mr Trainor said, with increased investment, Derry city will be "a different place in five years time".

County Down seaside resort Newcastle, previously branded as tacky by the guide, has been praised for it's multi-million pound makeover which now sports "a snazzy new promenade, complete with modern sculptures and elegant foot bridge".

But the Lonely Planet guide still commented on the "gauntlet of amusement arcades and fast food takeaways" on the town's main street.

In Co Donegal, Bundoran,has retained it's crown as "Ireland's tackiest holiday resort", according to the guide.

There is little shift in opinion from the guides previous edition, which said the seaside destination offered "half-baked fairground rides, fast food diners and overpriced B&B's".

But this year the guide has identified some of Bundoran's redeeming attributes: "The big draw is the surf, the strand and nearby dunes are beautiful, offering a scenic spot for walking and horse riding".

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