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Family mourns loss of Irish K2 climber

Monday, 4 August 2008

Gerard McDonnell in his element as he leads a group of explorers across South Georgia during a previous expedition

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The family of a Irish mountaineer killed on the world's most-dangerous mountain -- just hours after becoming the first Irishman to scale its heights -- were last night trying to come to terms with his death.

Gerard McDonnell (37) is believed to have been in the first group of three climbers that was swept off K2 mountain by a serac, or avalanche of ice, as a 17-strong party descended the mountain on Saturday, in an area known as "the bottleneck".

Catastrophe struck in the early hours of Saturday, when a chunk of ice broke from the serac and tore away fixed lines from a steep gully known as the Bottleneck, above 8,200m. Several expeditions were on the mountain at the time, including a Korean team that was making its descent after reaching the peak on Pakistan's border with China. The Korean group lost five members, including the two Nepalese.

When the fixed ropes were swept away, the survivors were left stranded over 8,000m high on the mountain, a level described by mountaineers as the "death zone", because the amount of oxygen cannot sustain human life.

They later made a desperate attempt to descend the mountain, but nine of the group, including Mr McDonnell, are feared dead, while several more climbers are missing.

It is unlikely that their bodies will ever be recovered from the mountain.

"We are extremely proud of the many heroic and brave achievements of our son and brother, Gerard," his brother-in-law, Damien O'Brien, said yesterday, reading out a statement on behalf of the family, near their home in Kilcornan, Limerick.

"He brought honour, not only to us, his family, but the whole country, when he became the first Irishman to summit K2 on Friday.

"The last few days have been a rollercoaster of emotions as we celebrated with joy his historic achievement, and now must try to come to terms with the untimely loss of a great son, brother and friend."

Mr McDonnell, an engineer who lived in Alaska with his partner Annie, was a hugely experienced climber, and veteran mountaineer Pat Falvey said that conditions to climb K2 on Friday were perfect.

"Mr McDonnell had climbed Everest in 2003 but was unsuccessful during an attempt on K2 in 2006."

"I was on numerous expeditions with Ger and he was one of the best climbers in the world," Mr Falvey said. "He was safe, fast and strong, but that isn't anything in the face of nature."

Mr Falvey said it was an "act of God" and it "couldn't be predicted" that the serac would break loose, just hours after the group had reached the peak of the second-highest mountain in the world.

Three climbers were seen to be swept off the mountain by the serac, with another five reported missing, and the remainder of the group were stranded above the bottleneck.

With no possible way of descent in the dark, they remained on the mountain overnight before two managed to free-climb down past the treacherous terrain.

However, they were unable to mount a rescue for the rest of the group because of extreme tiredness, which led to a number of desperate descent attempts later on Saturday.

Although details remain unconfirmed, it is understood that seven of the initial 17-strong party were safe last night and attempting to descend the mountain from various camps.

They included Dutch team leader Wilco Van Rooijen -- who survived three night's exposure on the mountain, a feat of incredible human endurance -- Italian Marco Confortola, and Spaniard Alberto Zerain.

"Gerard's love of mountain climbing was surpassed only by his love for his family and friends," Mr O'Brien said.

"Our thoughts are with his long-time girlfriend Annie in his adopted home of Alaska, where he lived for the last 11 years."

President Mary McAleese, who met Mr McDonnell after he travelled to the South Pole, said her thoughts were with his family.

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I was a friend of Gerard's in Alaska, where we were in a traditional Irish band together. The other posts have covered most of what I would add myself, and it was heartening to see so many eloquent postings from those who knew him. I wish to simply add that Gerard McDonnell was as noble a human being as ever existed, and because of that our mourning is all the more amplified. He is no doubt singing in his lovely voice and playing the bodhrán in a better place now.

Posted by Dan Possumato, Portland, Oregon USA | 07.08.08, 01:47 GMT

I am orginally from Kilcornan and knew Ger as we grew up on the GAA fields of Kilcornan and later would meet briefly as we passed through different stages of life in Dublin, Cork and beyond.

I have read the tributes and can only concur with them as Ger personified life and the living of it. Life passing permaturely is always sad and in such a case with Ger, it is sadder. The one consolation in all of this is Ger passed on in where he found great joy and happiness and for this, one must be grateful.

May Ger rest in peace; keep smiling. My thoughts are with his Mum, partner, faimly and friends. God bless!

Posted by Liam, Dublin | 06.08.08, 11:56 GMT

I went to school with ger in askeaton he is a great man he was clever, witty and a friend to everyone at school, I am going to keep praying for a miracle, they happen. God be with him and his family and annie at this time. sharon

Posted by sharon, askeaton, ireland | 06.08.08, 08:28 GMT

God bless his soul. Gerard is in a better place now. My sympathies to his family and friends

Posted by Alex | 05.08.08, 20:22 GMT

Many of Gerard's friends and fellow musicians were gathered here in Anchorage, Alaska, on Friday and Saturday for an annual Irish music festival and celebration when news came of the catastrophe on K2. We carried on, as we believe Gerard would have wanted, playing the music he loved and played with such passion, but our spirits grew ever heavier as the hours passed. Each of us carries in our hearts bits of the joy and laughter Gerard so freely shared. Our thoughts are with his family and loved ones. He is sorely missed. I am grateful he was part of our lives and our community.

Dave Millen, Anchorage

Posted by Dave Millen, Anchorage, Alaska | 05.08.08, 01:48 GMT

Congrats on making it to the top Gerard. We'll miss you and your music and your wit terribly. I hope wherever you are, and whatever you're doing, you've still got that twinkle in your eye.

My sincerest condolences to Gerard's family and friends...

Posted by Erin T, Fairbanks, AK | 05.08.08, 00:29 GMT

I worked with Gerard at Kuparuk Oil Field on the North Slope, Alaska. I knew him as a soft-spoken sincere guy with a ready smile and a perpetual shine in his eye. I had absolutely no idea what a giant of the climbing community he was as well.

I see now that the height of his character was exceeded only by the depth his humility. He'll be sorely missed indeed.

My heart goes out to his family.

Posted by Rodney Evans, Anchorage, USA | 04.08.08, 22:07 GMT

I have known and worked with Gerard for the past 2 years at the Kuparuk Field on the North Slope, Alaska. We loved the abundant energy and enthusiasm he brought to the office.

He endeared himself to everyone he met on the Slope what with his pleasant outlook, even on the coldest of an Arctic winter day. We all admired his everlasting smile, quiet composure, quick wit and charming personality.

When I saw him on-shift at Kuparuk just prior to his trip to K-2, we chatted about a popular book "Three Cups of Tea", which we had both recently read. I recall telling him that it must be quite fascinating to go to the very locations the book was based on. More fascintating are accounts of his life and adventures, most of which he kept modestly to himself. A life well lived and exemplified indeed!

Our thoughts and prayers go to his family, his partner and those close to him in the mountaneering world. Let us hold out for a miracle.
God bless!
Jay Murali

Posted by Jay Murali | 04.08.08, 19:45 GMT

Rest in peace Ger what a wonderful person always a big smile across his face a story to tell and a joy to be around, and now a well deserved place in history.

Posted by Fiona Hanley, Gillingham | 04.08.08, 13:30 GMT

It is with the greatest sadness I write. Many years ago in another lifetime I was engaged to Gerard's brother JJ and lived with Gerard and his lovely family in Ireland. I have followed Gerard's career with great pride from the other side of the world. My prayers are with his family and partner. I know their strong faith will see them through this most terrible tragedy. I was shocked and wept at the news. Its many years since I've seen Gerard but I can still picture his warm smile across the kitchen table as I helped him with his biology homework. I pray that God's comfort comes swift.

Posted by Carol, Gold Coast QLD, Australia | 04.08.08, 13:10 GMT

How sad for your wonderful country and people. I was so happy an Irishman had made it to the top. Maybe a miracle will occur.

Posted by Cait Sullivan, California, USA | 04.08.08, 06:23 GMT

Hello, I work in Alaska and knew Gerard - He was a good friend and I feel proud to have known him!! We exchanged stories of things we have done and places we had been. I always enjoyed hearing of Ireland and really liked his accent. He was a good man and will be missed dearly.
I am sorry for your loss
Eric

Posted by Eric Strand, Knoxville, USA | 03.08.08, 22:09 GMT

I really would like to believe he would be found, this heroic men, we are just following the news, from explorerweb and internet this incredible life experience..
these heros who just tailed behind their dreams gave us the perseverance and lots of expectations..for that reason I celebrate their families for that unbelievable achievement
our prayers are for all of the people whose status are unknown and also who are still on the montagne.
All we know, it is still dangerous for all of them

Posted by Nur, istanbul | 03.08.08, 19:53 GMT

Gerard has been our neighbor in Anchorage, AK, he will be missed. He was a great guy with a warm smile and laugh for everyone. I can still hear him laughing and telling stories, what a great story teller, his sense of humor was so uniquely "Gerard"... His achievements will be talked of for a long time to come. Many of us were affected by his kind spirit, and generosity, his soul shall endeavor within many people hearts. Rest Gerard, we love you.

Posted by Michael H, Elanor C | 03.08.08, 18:56 GMT