The world's worst airports
Trying to get away in the modern age is enough to make anyone terminally frustrated. As a new survey nominates the worst airports in the world, our foreign correspondents choose their least favourite flight paths
Wednesday, 28 November 2007
According to our foreign correspondents, hazards at airports can include anything from AK-47s and organised criminals to the famously rude officials at US immigration.
So many unpleasant things can happen at airports. Flights missed at great cost, and greater inconvenience; terminal delays; rudeness at immigration; body searches at Customs; interrogation at security; missed connections; lost luggage; or bomb alerts that force everyone out into the cold.
Then there's the merely dull: the interminable queues, the hours before take-off, the boring shopping, the long walks to the departure gate. And when you've almost, finally, got through it all, there's the mild stress you feel as you reach your seat, your hand baggage is stowed overhead, and you wait for the discomforting air pressurisation.
My most dismal airport experience was removing my shoes for them to be X-rayed at Heathrow in January. Luckily, I was wearing good socks. But as I stood shoeless on a patch of frayed carpet, in the dreary armpit of civilisation that is London's flagship airport, the sheer indignity of it killed any lingering association between air travel and glamour.
A few of the 2.2 billion travellers who fly annually suffer a far worse fate. A new guide to the world's most awful airports, by Foreign Policy magazine, doesn't even include Heathrow in its top five. Instead, it offers: Dakar in Senegal; New Delhi in India; Mineralnye Vody in Russia; Baghdad International, Iraq; and Charles de Gaulle in Paris.
Starting with the most dangerous (it's in a war zone), it notes that planes landing in Baghdad have to execute a "stomach-churning" descent in case of missiles, before travellers head downtown on the "highway of death".
Dakar has no seats and travellers are targeted by hawkers, porters and security guards who move them on. Immigration takes three hours.
Delhi? Aggressive beggars, syringes on the terminal floor, filthy bathrooms. Mineralnye Vody, near the Chechen border, seems a throwback to Communist Russia, with feral cats and a list of local murderers pinned to the wall. The verdict on Charles de Gaulle? "Visitors to Paris should expect more than grimy terminals, rude staff, confusing layout and overpriced food..."
According to our own pundits - The Independent's foreign correspondents, whose own "worst airports" are listed on these pages - the hazards can include anything from AK-47s and organised criminals to the famously rude officials at US immigration.
Why are airports so bad? Perhaps it's because travellers are not so much customers as captives, and airports exploit them without mercy. Got to wait for a few hours? Why not stroll through the soulless shops and pick up some overpriced bauble? For most of us, the abiding experience of airports is not horror. It is tedium.
Martin Hickman
Clifford Coonan - Beijing
The worst airport is the one I
have to use most often: Beijing Capital International Airport. Although
generally very efficient, it is blighted with nervous ticks and quirks as to
make it both lovable and infuriating at the same time. The introduction of
Norman Foster's new terminal in time for the Olympic Games will most likely
change air travel in the Chinese capital completely. It has had some minor
cosmetic changes in recent years, but it remains a throwback to the days of
central planning and socialist realism.
This is no consumer
paradise - mostly what's on offer is shrink-wrapped fruit and cheap panda
dolls. And don't even think about buying a foreign newspaper - most are
banned from its precincts. There is a useful row of trollies for holding
your hand luggage as you disembark, which are taken away, 30 metres later,
as you approach the first of many customs and health checks. And a lack of
slots means that domestic flights are sometimes parked in what feels like
the city of Tianjin, leaving you stuck on a bus for half an hour as you head
back to the terminal. Initial changes ahead of the Olympics include the
removal of the emergency exit notice reading: "No entry on peacetime"
. And I shall miss the hands-free sign above the taps saying: "
Unnecessary touching".
Other candidates include Kunming in
south-west China, which signalled its true intentions in the early Nineties
with a sign on the runway saying, "We welcome our foreign fiends",
and, of course, Dublin, which has queues that would put the old airport in
Bangkok to shame, although this, too, is being upgraded. Constantly.
Graham Keeley - Madrid
Madrid Barajas masquerades as the
Spanish capital's shiny new airport, with its undulating Terminal 4 designed
by Lord Rogers. But it's really a huge shopping mall, where travellers feel
as if they could get lost, perhaps for years.
Just to reach the
boarding gates, passengers have to tackle a 20- or 30-minute walk, past
lines of shops that are of little interest if your flight is leaving in the
next five minutes.
Personally, I'm not clear why the Spanish
authorities are not more honest about the real purpose of this airport that
stretches on into the horizon, rather like the African plains. But, thinking
about it, that would give the game away; people might think that, as they
had arrived at Barajas, they were virtually in Madrid. In reality, their
journey has only just begun.
Earlier this year, a British couple
lost their dog in the airport. It wasn't found for weeks. This came as no
surprise to weary travellers such as me.
Other European horror
shows include Malaga (enormous but still not big enough); Venice (constant
delays, in spite of which the bars and restaurants close early); and Athens
(virtually guaranteed to lose your bag).
John Lichfield - Paris/CDG
I nominate Charles de Gaulle
airport, Paris. The old part is a cramped and crumbling concrete doughnut
with no windows; and the new part, or second terminal, is actually six
terminals, scattered and difficult to find your way around. Part of it fell
down in 2004, killing five people.
Marginally less awful, but only
just, is Beauvais, north-west of Paris (a Ryanair hub). This has developed
in past 10 years from a prefab in a muddy field to a tent in a muddy field
and, now, a new cardboard building in a muddy field. It's miles away from
Paris, and only reachable by a long coach-ride.
Bad airports
aren't exclusive to France, however. John F Kennedy in New York is tatty,
scattered about and poorly interconnected. Dublin is always being torn down
and rebuilt; it never seems to be finished and never seems adequate enough
to cope with all the extra air-passenger traffic generated by the budget
airline Ryanair and the Irish economic boom.
Donald Macintyre - Heathrow
The former Foreign Secretary
Douglas Hurd once described Heathrow as a "camp" - and he was
getting the full VIP treatment every time he passed through. The very word
conjures images that are almost wholly negative: the foreigner-baffling
approach to Terminal Four, which always feels like a temporary diversion,
but isn't; the massive, shuffling queue of arrivals at passport control on,
say, a Saturday evening, calculated to dissipate any surge of homecoming
euphoria; the mournful stocks of hairspray and aftershave discarded at
departures; the breathtaking costs incurred by anyone ignorant enough to
take a taxi into the city, and - more personally - the peculiar humiliation
of being forced, on a bleak winter's morning after a sleepless 20-hour
flight from the Far East, to pay in duty half the cost of a Hong Kong-made
suit that falls apart two days later.
Maybe it's no one's fault.
Security is a fact of life - though Tel Aviv's Ben Gurion airport, apart
from the too-well documented harassment of even Israeli Arabs, seems to do
it so much more efficiently. And the sheer volume of traffic means that
expansion of Heathrow, even at an unfathomable environmental cost, will
never be enough. Perhaps it's simply a necessary reminder of how most of us
fly too much.
Runners-up are Baghdad, because of the world's most
terrifying approach road and - a cheat, this - Gaza International Airport,
which has been closed for seven years. This is a potent symbol of how the
high hopes for the Strip, once described by Yasser Arafat as a future
Singapore, have been destroyed since the Nineties.
Peter Popham - Delhi
The marble walls and floors of Delhi's
Indira Gandhi international airport are the colour of dead flesh under the
fluorescent lights, the carpeting is a thin scarlet runner, and paan stains
are splattered in corners. Creature comforts are negligible. Passport
control takes an eternity. Half the trolleys are broken down. They force you
to x-ray your luggage coming in to the country as well as going out. The
taxi stands strategically located before the exits snare innocent tourists
and charge them several times the rate of the regular taxi wallahs outside.
The duty-free shops are a joke.
Still, there are others; Heathrow
is horrible; Frankfurt destroys the soul; Dhaka had no signboards the last
time I was there, and Mae Sot (in Thailand), in my experience, has no
airplanes.
Ruth Elkins - Basel-Mulhouse
Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg
Airport is "a symbol of the international cooperation which became
absolutely vital after the Second World War". At least that's how the "
EuroAirport" website tells it. It's a tri-national gateway to
Switzerland, France and Germany - all of which co-exist in perfect aviation
harmony. Great in theory. So very, very bad in practice.
It would
probably be OK if Basel were an entirely Swiss-run, neutral affair. But it
ain't. Although it boasts a Swiss "sector," it's actually in
France. The facilities are tolerable, even if it's light on shopping, and
the faux-Tyrolean caff in the "French Sector" refuses to open
before 9am. It's also difficult to get back in, should you wish to go to
Switzerland but mistakenly leave through the unmarked exit for France. But
what really makes Basel into airport (or EU) hell is the Carestel News Cafe.
The circular bar, perched between French and German departure lounges, has
one French waiter. Sandwiches are displayed on the French side of the bar.
And the French waiter stays that side, too.
Kathy Marks - Jakarta
The minimum one-hour journey
from the city centre, battling along a traffic-choked motorway, is a poor
introduction to Jakarta's airport. Things don't improve much when you
arrive. First, the check-in desks at the international terminal are
confusingly concealed behind a false wall. And don't even bother trying to
find airline ticketing desks: like me, you'll just end up wandering the
terminal, getting more and more frustrated.
The cafes and
duty-free shops are woeful, so it's tricky to while away the time before a
flight. If your flight is delayed, there's a small and expensive hotel
within the international terminal.
Jakarta's domestic terminal is
always manically busy, and if you need service at a ticket desk, you have to
use your elbows. Facilities are pretty basic. On arrival, taxi touts can be
oppressive.
The only saving grace is that the many failings of
Jakarta's airport are counterbalanced by the courtesy of its Indonesian
staff. My other contenders for the world's worst airport are Bogota, which
is an extremely scary place to emerge from at night, and Heathrow; I have to
use it to return to Australia.
Patrick Cockburn - Baghdad
Baghdad airport is hell. It is
approached down a dangerous highway. Suitcases and cars are searched, and
searched again. Everything is done in a miasma of fear. Everywhere, there
are cement blast walls and razor wire to impede the enterprising suicide
bomber. On reaching the terminal, there are four more searches to go
through.
Some passengers fall at the first hurdle: they do not
have an exit visa. Why this is necessary is unclear, but it adds to the
earnings of the Interior Ministry. Last year, I saw a wounded French
photographer with shrapnel through his shoulder being turned back. You
cannot get in to the airport complex without a ticket, but this may not be
enough. Some airline staff systematically sell more seats than there are on
the plane. It is wise to be first in the queue. One American whom I was
standing next to almost had a nervous breakdown when he was "bumped"
, and paid a $1,100 (£500) bribe to get back on. The departure lounge is also
testing, because there are no announcements.
Andrew Gumbel - Los Angeles/LAX
It can be argued that all
American airports became the world's worst after September 11, as queues for
security became hellish, and struggling carriers cancelled flights. I retain
a special dislike for LAX. Nothing approaches the horror of American
Airlines losing control of Terminal 4 when - at least on a couple of
occasions - it refused to staff the check-in desks adequately and made no
provision for passengers with imminent departures. I missed my flight, and
I'm guessing at least half of the distressed crowds did, too. Over at
terminal one, the security queue often snakes hundreds of yards outside.
Experts have pointed out that the queue itself is a risk - any terrorist could
drive by with a sub-machine gun. The scrapping of in-flight meals on
domestic flights has caused fresh hell on the other side of the security
gates, too, giving passengers the choice of queuing all over again for
overpriced sandwiches and coffee, or going hungry for hours on end.
Andrew Buncombe - Rangoon
There's nothing bad about
Rangoon's Mingaladon airport in itself. It's clean and bright - and the
recently completed facilities hum with efficiency - but I shall always
associate it with a feeling of intense anxiety. The last time I visited
Rangoon (or Yangong, as it's officially called), like 99 per cent of
journalists who ever fly there, I was posing as a tourist and convinced the
authorities would catch on.
In the past, I've had similar stomach
knots flying into Havana: the Cubans are also reluctant to give journalists
visas, so I was trying to cover the preparations for Fidel Castro's 80th
birthday while posing as a holidaymaker.
In Burma, I was lucky and
flew in and out without a hitch. In Cuba, I was detained for hours after
foolishly getting out my laptop in the departures lounge. Officials put me
on a later plane, though not before confiscating my notebooks.
Elsewhere, Delhi International airport is a maelstrom of honking taxis,
frenetic hawkers and languid cows. Flying into Haiti always required a leap
of faith because of a large sign at Port-au-Prince's airport warning that it
was the only one in the world which the US Department of Transportation said
did not meet "international security standards".
Steve Bloomfield - Mogadishu
The approach into Mogadishu's
international airport - swooping over unspoilt white and orange beaches, the
deep, blue waves of the Indian Ocean crashing into the shore - is one of the
most beautiful in Africa.
The arrival is quite different.
Insurgents battling government and Ethiopian troops throughout the city have
been known to lob the odd shell in the direction of the airport. A week
after The Independent last visited, a plane was shot down. To leave the
airport requires an escort of at least four men with AK-47s.
In a
country where Al-Qa'ida's East African wing is now considered fully
operational, Somali immigration officials are naturally keen to ensure no
one unauthorised smuggles their way through immigration.
Unfortunately, the checks seem to consist of little more than handing out
letters informing disembarking passengers: "After a thorough
investigation it has been established that 'insert name here' is not a
member of Al-Qa'ida."
No other African airport is likely to
be bombed as the plane attempts to land. But there are a handful of others
which scare passengers in different ways. In Freetown, Sierra Leone, the
seven-minute helicopter ride from airport to city on old, rusty Russian-made
helicopters (flown by old, rusty Russian-made pilots) makes it an experience
to forget.
Kinshasa is a nightmare in a different sense. At some
airports the corruption is low key - a $10 note here, a "something for
my tea" there.
At Kinshasa things are far more upfront and
strangely businesslike. Want to collect your bag? That will be $20. Want to
get your passport stamped? That will be $10, plus an extra $10 if you want
it done today.
Sophie Lam - Gatwick
Disappointing is the word that best
sums up the world's busiest single-runway airport. Nowhere makes me more
eager to leave the country, while making it more difficult to do so. It's
the South Terminal I really loathe. Once you've made it to the end of the
interminable security queue, past the understaffed security checks and into
the claustrophobically circular airside concourse, you're in a maelstrom of
human traffic, hemmed in by mediocre shops. Want a coffee? Choose from a
array of fast-food outlets. They serve a proper coffee at the North
Terminal, so why not here? Still, at least they've got ride of the
depressing smoker's box, sandwiched between McDonald's, Wetherspoon and
Garfunkel's. Once you've managed to get out, the passages leading to
departure gates seem to be in a permanent state of renovation, with no end
result. Arrive back late and you're faced with an £80 taxi fare into London
or a miserable wait in the run-down station.
Shaun Walker - Moscow
Moscow Sheremetyevo, a drab shoebox of
an airport I have the misfortune to find myself in every couple of weeks,
gets my vote. Reachable by a single road that also leads to Ikea, St
Petersburg and half the world's dachas, it can take three hours to get there
from the city centre.
Once there, the only acceptable food option
is a TGI Friday's that takes an age to prepare the simplest order,
frequently meaning you throw the money down and run to check-in without
being fed.
At passport control, scan each line for anyone of black
or Asian appearance and pick the one with the fewest such people - the
border guards give anyone who isn't Caucasian extra hassle.
Finally, you'll be accosted by an army of taxi sharks demanding £50 or more
to get to the city centre. Bargain them down to £25, get into a Lada that
reeks of petrol fumes, and look forward to that three-hour drive. Welcome to
Russia!
If it wasn't for Sheremetyevo, my vote would go to
Yerevan, Armenia. The airport is fine, but every time I go I forget that on
leaving there's a mysterious $25 "tax", payable only in Armenian
drams and handed to a hirsute Armenian in an unmarked booth who doesn't take
credit cards and gives you a slip saying "Passangar Departure Tax"
.
The last time I was there, I almost missed my flight as I
sprinted around different corners of the airport trying to find a cashpoint
that was working so that I could pay the fee and get out.
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