Wednesday Jul 13 2011

Can women ever find the perfect bra?Too big? Too small?

Underwire digging in? So what is the secret to ultimate comfort? Three female writers sought out the experts to see if they measure up to the task

You might think that finding the right sized bra is a simple enough task, but you would be very wrong. It is estimated that 80% of women wear the wrong size.

Many imagine that the bra they wore when they were in their 20s will be the same size as the one they need as they approach middle age.

Indeed the shape and size of a woman's breasts change a number of times in her life. This is mainly due to fluctuations in weight, sport, pregnancy, contraception, medication and diet. That is why it is recommended that women are fitted every six months.

Most women underestimate the size of bra they need, hence the requirement for a proper measurement and fitting.

Simply finding a style you like hanging on the rail — in the size you think you are — is just not the way to go about find a garment that fits and supports properly.

No matter how glamourous your outfit, an ill-fitting bra can undo all that effort. If it is too small it will leave you looking as if you have armpit boobs and if it is too large it can wrinkle and pucker, a horrible look especially under sleek, chic tops or dresses.

We sent three Belfast Telegraph writers to two popular high street stores and a lingerie specialist outlet in search of the perfect bra.

Here are their experiences.

‘I was wearing the wrong size for 10 years’

How Helen Carson fared:

The first store that ever properly measured me for a bra |was Marks & Spencer, just over 10 years ago when I was expecting my son Pierce. And it was thanks to this press event to publicise the free service that I realised I’d been wearing the wrong bra size for over 10 years.

Since then, I have made a point of being measured regularly and always trying before buying.

Marks & Spencer

A decade later the M&S lingerie line-up is a lot more impressive in both style and sizes available.

Big-busted girls are no longer relegated to choosing something from the corner full of boxed matronly bras. Indeed, if you’ve got killer cleavage your cup floweth over with pretty, colourful ranges up to a GG cup.

And when it comes to the feat of engineering that is a bra, it seems size really does matter.

The assistant measured me, then returned to the changing room with everything from practical T-shirt bras to provocative push-ups. The variation between styles, however, was immense with one bra four cup sizes smaller than I had measured up to.

I liked the collections here which are well-priced, but the disparity between the sizes and styles made trying and buying a long drawn-out process.

How I measured up at M&S: 34 DD

Prices: from £14 for a bra

Sizes: up to GG

Bra Boutique, Arthur Street, Belfast

The mother and daughter team of Yvonne McFarland and Jocelyn Reynolds are determined to get women to take their boobs more seriously.

The pair own and run Orchid on Belfast’s Lisburn Road, The Lingerie Room at the Linen Green in Dungannon and the recently-opened Bra Boutique in Belfast city centre.

“We want to educate women about finding the right size and style of bra for them,” says Jocelyn.

And there’s not much she doesn’t know about giving women a lift. As the buyer for the outlets she has travelled to the factories to see the technology involved.

“There are over 50 component parts in some bras,” she says. “Bra-making is a skilled trade to these manufacturers.”

Jocelyn went into the changing room to see how I measured up. And she says the first thing to find out is the occasion the woman wants a bra for.

“Women will need about three different types of bra, for their wardrobe,” adds Jocelyn. “Bras should be fun and as much about fashion as the fit.”

The attention to detail at Bra Boutique is extraordinary. I was even putting my bra on wrong before I went there.

You need to lean forward to deposit your jubblies properly into their lacy receptacle.

And the experts here recommend a fitting every six months, with the average bra lasting you just over a year before it should be traded in.

In terms of comfort, style and fit, Bra Boutique was the most successful. They had the prettiest and best-quality selection. And I was pleasantly surprised to see affordable brands such as Freya were here.

Jocelyn was the only one who checked the fit in terms of the strap, the cup’s closeness to the breast bone, bra line at the back and the sides.

And it works. I easily found a really beautiful bra that fitted perfectly. And just to be sure she makes you try on your top over a new bra to make sure it’s absolutely right.

How I measured up at Bra Boutique: 32 DD

Prices: bras from £22

Sizes: up to G plus

Debenhams

On the day I visited Debenhams I was told by the changing room assistant there is no bra-fitting service during a sale. Given that it was just before noon and the changing room was empty and the assistant was standing idly by, this seems a disappointing attitude. Do women not need to be fitted for bargain basement bras? And if this were the case, why aren’t all the bras in the sale?

I noticed the lingerie department was also empty of customers at that time too. On the service front, Debenhams was totally busted.

How I measured up at Debenhams: no fitting service that day

Prices: bras from £18

Sizes: up to G

Kerry McKittrick, Laura McGarrity and Helen Carson put bras to the test

‘I found myself a strapless bra: the Holy Grail’

How Kerry McKittrick fared:

Ask any woman what bra shopping is like, and nine out of ten will say stressful. It doesn't matter how big or how small you are. The thing is our breasts, knockers, busts or boobs come in hundreds, if not thousands, of shapes and sizes, and the bra variations available in the shops aren’t always up to the job.

While living in London a few years ago, Time Out magazine informed me that one of the things I simply had to do before I left was get a bra fitted at corsetieres to the Queen, Rigby and Peller. I had no idea what to expect. I was shown into a changing room and ordered to strip to the waist with any hopes of modesty going out the window. I soon forgot the embarrassment as I was measured expertly by eye then strapped into a number of different bras.

Since that experience I’ve learnt what to look for in a good bra. The underwire should sit flush against your chest instead of standing out. Your breasts should be contained within the cup — even when you raise your arms. Bras should always be tried on in the shop and, although it sounds crazy, jumping up and down in the changing rooms will check they are as supportive as possible.

You know you're wearing the wrong sized bra if it rides up at the back, if you spill out over the tops of the cups or if there is loose material at the top.

Marks & Spencer

M&S in Donegall Place, Belfast, have a double sized changing room set aside especially for bra measuring purposes. I got nice, polite service straight away as I was ushered into the changing room and asked to remove everything above the waist but my own bra. The assistant politely waited outside.

I felt the measuring itself wasn’t so confident. My measurement was mainly taken by eye and the measuring tape wasn’t fitted snugly round me. I was a bit surprised to discover I was a 40/42C as I haven't been a C-cup for a while.

But when I was shown a selection of M&S bras, and started trying them on, the 40C did seem to fit me well enough.

However, I was then shown some bras that seemed to give zilch support, including a 36B which didn’t reach and was told that I could buy the extension straps to it would fit around the back. Of course, I couldn’t get into it. Most of the bras didn’t do the job, even though M&S are famed for their lingerie. If the cups weren't gaping at the top then I was bouncing around inside them or spilling out. I felt let down on by the shop that’s always been my go-to bra emporium.

How I measured up at M&S: 40/42C

Prices: from £14 for a bra

Sizes: up to GG

Debenhams

From the beginning I got the impression from the bra-fitting lady that Debenhams had being doing this for years. The measuring tape was pulled snugly around my torso even if it was freezing cold.

Again I was measured for cupsize by eye and this time I was proclaimed to be a 38E. I also got a few tips. When buying a bra, always make sure it fits when it's on the loosest hook as all bras lose their elasticity over time.

I've always been wary of the many different brands available in Debenhams. Although the service wasn't the friendliest, I did feel the woman knew what she was talking about — adjusting straps here and paying attention to gaping at the top of the cup.

How I measured up at Debenhams: 38E

Prices: £24 for a blue balconette bra from Panache

Sizes: up to K

Bra Boutique, Arthur Street, Belfast

Apart from my London experience, I have never been into a dedicated bra emporium and in this one you get personal service — there isn't really any other kind available.

This time I was measured around the middle of my bust . We reached the conclusion I was actually a 38F this time around. I tried on four bras in this shop and learned that one of your boobs is always bigger than the other, and that the best way to put on a bra is while you're leaning forward.As with sizing generally, there are variations — in a Fantasie bra I'm a 36FF, in a Freya I'm a 38F.

The lady judged my size expertly and I felt secure and comfortable in everything I tried on. No underwires digging in or double-boob syndrome. I even managed to find myself a strapless bra — the holy grail of the bra collection. I settled on a flowery Fantasie bra priced at £30 which even featured discreet panels for extra control.

How I measured up at The Bra Boutique: 36FF

Prices: from £22 for a bra

Sizes: up to G

‘Bra Boutique gave me most thorough fitting’

How Laura McGarrity fared:

Shopping for underwear has never really been a major issue for me, but for many women it’s a task they dread. For me, it’s simply trial and error. I don’t have problems being measured, but the half-closed curtain policy I found in M&S and Debenhams could be a problem for some.

Marks & Spencer

Marks & Spencer must be one of the most popular shops for women to learn their vital statistics. Walking around their underwear department, it’s no wonder they are popular, as their signs offer £5 off underwear when you’re fitted for a bra.

The sales assistant measured under my bust over my dress — I wasn’t entirely sure this would give an accurate measurement, but I was thankful to keep my clothes on. My bra fitter returned with only two different types of bras in sizes 34B to a 32D, despite having around 20 shapes of bras to chose from. She then left, leaving the curtain half open.

I liked the Supersoft Extra Comfort Bra as I felt really supported and comfortable in this, although it did look a bit frumpy. I really hoped to get some feedback from the sales assistant, but she was nowhere to be seen. I waited a while, but eventually gave up and left without any new underwear. I somehow think Mary Portas wouldn’t have been happy.

How I measured up at M&S: 32C

Price: £20

Sizes: up to GG

Debenhams

As a teenager I worked in Debenhams’ lingerie department, so I guess I’ve always been clued up. Before then, I just wanted bras with loads of padding, like most 16-year-olds. But my Saturday job opened my eyes to the range of colours and styles. At Debenhams, I’d have my chest measured, as at that age your figure changes all the time. By the time I was at university, my figure had changed.

Looking around my old haunt, I was distracted by the colourful underwear sets and the many different brands on offer. I decided to look for a white T-shirt bra to give me a constant in all of the shops. The sales assistant measured me over my bra and under my bust and also asked what size I was wearing at the minute.

Although I found the bra fitter very helpful, she ignored my request and only brought me nude and black bras. Also, I was only offered bras from Debenhams’ own collection. I noticed the curtain of my changing room was left open quite a lot. After trying some bras on I found Debenhams’ Stretch and Mould T-shirt bra fitted me the best.

Measurement: 32D

Price: £16

Sizes: up to G

The Bra Boutique

The next shop I visited was The Bra Boutique, sister shop of Orchid on the Lisburn Road. As soon as I walked through the door my eyes caught a pale pink La Perla box and I was in heaven. The Bra Boutique really gave me the most thorough bra fitting: I was measured below my chest, over my bra and above my chest. I was shown one bra at a time to try on and the assistant even put it on for me. I found this experience less daunting than being given me a pile of bras in every size. I tried on a couple of bras by Chantelle, La Perla and finally settled on a Marie Jo bra. Although the one I tried on was nude, I was told they could order a white one for me. I fell in love with it, it fitted me perfectly, and this is the one I actually ordered.

Measurement: 32C

Price: £48

Sizes: up to G+