While the burnt banger or crusty hockey puck burger may have its own nostalgic charm, you can do so much more with just a few charcoals and the odd chunk of wood.
s the mercury continues to defy our normally pessimistic expectations, if you haven’t already, now is the time to get the barbecue out.
Whether it’s a kettle, a smoker, pellet or even gas, there’s a wide variety of things you can create.
It’s very much learning on the job — working from direct heat grilling, to slower cooking for larger items, such as whole chicken, duck or ribs, right up to the marathon of coal and vent management needed to perfect a beef brisket.
As for the equipment, it doesn’t have to cost the earth. If you’ve got your old reliable kettle barbecue, then stick with it. If you’re getting your first, a simple 47cm charcoal Weber will take care of most of your needs, and for years to come.
A lot of it is trial and error. Cooking over charcoal, regardless of the quality, is not a science. You are at the behest of our weather, fluctuating temperatures, gusty wind impacting airflow and thus temperature, and a plethora of minutiae.
But it’s the best way to go — balancing flavour, some convenience, and cheaper gear. Gas offers quick, easy and reliable direct cooking outdoors, but lacks the smoke and any of the characteristics slow-cooking over wood or charcoal will have on the finished product. For charcoal barbecues, get yourself a cheap chimney starter. It’s the fastest way to get them to that roasting hot level, ashing over, and then ready to be poured onto your grill grate. Don’t skimp on charcoal. Most of the best brands aren’t much pricier, but you’ll likely have to pay your local garden centre a visit.
Chicken thighs are a great and affordable option for quick cooking. A simple rub of smoked paprika, salt and pepper, along with the natural smoke, will add tonnes of flavour to a traditional blank canvas. Generally speaking, throw in a few chunks or wood chips under your coals to add more smoke flavour.
A whole chicken can also be easily cooked. Stick your coals off to one side, a well-seasoned chicken on the other, lid on, and keep the temperature at a medium level.
Pork ribs are a great way to try some slower cooking, without worrying about destroying a big cut of brisket, or tending coals all day. Season a rack with a barbecue dry rub of choice, coals to one side, lid on and keep the temperature low. Spray with cider vinegar every 15-30 minutes to keep them moist, and then baste in a barbecue sauce for the last 20-30 minutes of cooking.
Beef often comes out as the main player on the grill. And while you can cook a very expensive piece of meat on it, the barbecue’s abilities shine when you stick to cheaper cuts which can be slow-cooked. Chunks of short rib find their perfect home over charcoal. Give them enough time to render down on a lower temperature, and don’t be worried about overcooking.
And while meat tends to be the star of the barbecue show, all that smoke and slow charring ability can bring out the best of the most humble vegetable.
While using direct heat for proteins, lightly oiled and seasoned whole vegetables can be placed off to the side — think peppers, leeks, chillies, asparagus and corn, or anything else which isn’t too large or starchy (potatoes and sweet potatoes are great but need more time).
Hispi cabbage can be the main event if you treat it to some time over the coals. Cut in half or quarters and mix up a strongly-flavoured savoury butter. Brush the cabbage in the butter and cook over a medium heat with the lid on. Continue to brush the butter into the crevices as it continues to cook.