Whilst the end of January can often be a bit cold and dull this time of year also heralds the start of the citrus season. The promise of a little colour and tasty treats around the corner when we need it most. A good greengrocer will now stock lemons as big as your fist, sharp Seville oranges for marmalade and incomparable glorious blood oranges. On the outside these sanguine fruits look the same as their counterparts but the skin belies a dramatic ruby red flesh. Depending on the variety the blood reference could be anything from red mottled segments through to full blown crimson. They have a sweet and slightly lip-puckeringly sour combination of flavours and are good to eat on their own or squeeze the juice into something sparkly for an eye-catching and delicious drink.
nother staple guaranteed to gladden the heart on a grey day is a well-made cake. Add the magic of blood oranges and you have something really special. Slices of the citrus fruit are cooked in an orange syrup and then arranged in the bottom of a cake tin. The batter has ground almonds and is lightened with yoghurt. As it bakes, the syrup coated fruit melds into the cake. When turned out it should then be anointed with more of the syrup to add a layer of sticky lushness. It’s especially comforting with a cuppa if you warm it up and add some cool yoghurt.
Equally it’s perfectly acceptable to seek comfort in rich, dark stews and more sultry dishes at this time of year. And a roast chicken can be particularly reassuring with the addition of some zingy lemon. Buy lemons that really smell of the fruit. Go to a good greengrocer and buy some imported from Italy that are loose rather than trapped in a bag. The scent from the skin will transport you to somewhere warm and exotic. The chicken is coated with a citrusy, spiced yoghurt paste and roasted. It’s served with a lemon and almond rice salad. Hot chicken and cool rice – the ultimate yin and yang of deliciousness for this time of year.
Spiced lemon roast chicken with lemon and almond rice salad
What you’ll need
For the spiced lemon roast chicken
1 medium chicken, about 1.5kg
2 tablespoons olive oil
3 tablespoons natural yoghurt
1 lemon
3 cloves garlic, minced
Salt and pepper to taste
1 teaspoon garam masala
½ teaspoon turmeric
Method
Set the oven to 210oC and place the chicken on a lightly oiled roasting tray.
Mix the oil with the yoghurt, lemon zest, garlic, garam masala and turmeric and season to taste. Spoon generously over the chicken. Cut the lemon in half and add to the pan. Roast for 20 minutes then lower the heat to 170oC. Cook for about an hour or until a skewer inserted into the leg, the juices run clear. Allow to rest. Squeeze juice from lemon into the juices and boil to a thick sauce and set aside.
For the lemon and almond rice salad
1 onion, finely chopped
2 tablespoons olive oil
250g basmati rice
500ml chicken stock
Handful of fresh coriander
50g toasted flaked almonds
4 chopped scallions
Zest and juice of 1 lemon
Cook the onion in the rice until soft and add the rice and stock. Place a lid on top and heat until the rice is cooked and the stock has been absorbed – usually about 12 minutes. Then add the coriander, 2/3 of the almonds, scallions and lemon zest and juice. Mix in the juices from the roasted chicken and check the seasoning. Spoon into a bowl and top with the remaining flaked almonds.
Blood orange and almond cake
What you’ll need
For the blood oranges in syrup
4 blood oranges
100g castor sugar
Slice one and half of the oranges and set aside. Juice the remaining oranges into a saucepan and add the sugar. Cook until the sugar has dissolved. Add the orange slices and heat for about 10 minutes.
Grease and line an 8 inch cake tin with parchment paper. Arrange the orange slices on the bottom and spoon over a couple of tablespoons of the syrup.
For the cake
150g soft butter
200g castor sugar
Zest of 1 blood orange
150g ground almonds
200g plain flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
3 eggs
75ml Greek style yoghurt
Mix the flour and baking powder together.
Beat the butter and sugar until pale and fluffy. Add the orange zest and the eggs one at a time. Mix in half the yoghurt with half the flour and ground almonds. Mix in the remaining flour and yoghurt to a smooth batter. Spoon over the oranges and bake for about 45 minutes in a preheated 180oC oven or until an inserted skewer comes out clean.
Allow to cool for 10 minutes then turn out onto a plate, orange side up. Serve with cream or yoghurt.
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