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Restaurant review: Brunel's in Newcastle - six-course meal of highest standards but is it as easy as making toast to dish up at home


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Paul Cunningham, Brunel's

Paul Cunningham, Brunel's

Brunel's

Brunel's

Brunel's

Brunel's

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Paul Cunningham, Brunel's

I justified a trip to Newcastle as essential travel last weekend to take a closer look at chef Paul Cunningham whose restaurant Brunel's has been boxing up dinners including a six-course tasting menu for heat-at-home consumption. A six-course takeaway shows the kind of ambition last seen a century ago when the Mourne Wall was built by a handful of Down men sustained by buttermilk, jam sandwiches and 20 Woodbine.

And at the foot of the Mournes lies Brunel's, part of Newcastle's fabric ever since it first appeared upstairs above the Anchor Bar ten years ago before moving to its magnificent seafront position more recently. Chef Cunningham has always pushed the boat out. He's for ever trying new flavour pairings and complicated dishes which in the past have featured foams, deconstructions and straw.

Paul reaches high and low in his never-ending pursuit of new flavours and textures and you're as likely to find him foraging along the shoreline for samphire as he is climbing the slopes for wild garlic. Most of the food he serves is sourced within 30 miles.


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