It was the same sort of miserable November weather, grey and drizzling; the mass of humanity was large, chaotic and giddy as then; and there in the midst of it, three figures as solidly "eastern" as any of those who teemed across the Berlin Wall 20 years ago.
Lech Walesa, still every inch the Polish shop steward in his unionist's cap, Mikhail Gorbachev, still recognisably the Russian Communist he was then, and Angela Merkel, who when the Wall fell was a humble scientist in East Berlin.
Together they linked arms and walked over the grey steel Bornholmer bridge across which tens of thousands of East Germans, Ms Merkel among them, first flooded into West Berlin on the night of 9 November 1989. Carrying a small white rose and a large umbrella, the German Chancellor – whose life was changed beyond recognition by the Wall's collapse – paid tribute to her companions. "What happened in Poland was incredibly important for us all," she said.
And, turning to the former Soviet leader, she said: "We always knew that something had to happen there so that more could change here. You made this possible. You courageously let this happen, and that was much more than we could expect." And the crowd pressing around them cried, "Bravo, bravo!" and "Gorby, Gorby!"
The return to the Wall yesterday was low key, but none the less emotional for that. Ms Merkel told the crowd: "This is not just a day of celebration for Germany, it is a day of celebration for the whole of Europe."
Earlier, during a service at Berlin's Gesthemane church, she acknowledged that, despite the 20 years that have elapsed since the fall of the Wall, Germany still bears the scars of division, with the rate of unemployment in the east double that of the west. "German unity is still incomplete – we must tackle this problem if we want to achieve quality of life on an equal basis," she said.
What happened on the night of 9 November at the Bornholmer bridge crossing point in the Berlin Wall was arguably the single most critical moment in the events of 1989. East German border guards faced a 20,000-strong crowd of East Berliners chanting "Open the gate!" After trying to contact his superior and getting no response, the officer in charge of the crossing point finally succumbed and ordered the barriers to be opened. A human tide of East Berliners flooded into West Berlin, and, within the hour, all of Berlin's seven crossing points in the Wall were thrown open, heralding the collapse of Communism throughout Europe.
Katrin Hattenhauer, who is now in her early 40s, joined the throng of East Germans who headed for West Berlin across the Bornholmer bridge that night. A dissident who had been jailed in Leipzig
for protesting against the regime, she had only just been released from prison and was officially banned from travelling to Berlin.
"I decided to go all the same. It is my birthday on 9 November and I met up with some friends in a bar in East Berlin. Suddenly we heard the borders were open," she recalled yesterday. "The feeling was absolutely overwhelming. I went to the Bornholmer bridge and then on into West Berlin. They were dancing on the Wall. It was over – the best birthday present I could ever have had," she recalled.
Ms Hattenhauer was one of hundreds of thousands of Berliners and visitors from across Germany and overseas who joined celebrations in the reunited capital last night. Ms Merkel described the events as "a celebration of the happiest day in post-war German history".
Last night it was still raining as all 27 EU leaders plus Hillary Clinton and President Dmitry Medvedev of Russia gathered under the Brandenburg Gate – as powerful a symbol of the city's unity today as it was a symbol of its divisions before – to celebrate the anniversary. Also attending was the former Hungarian prime minister Miklos Nemeth, whose decision to open his country's borders with the West in the summer of 1989 was a key step towards Communism's collapse.
President Sarkozy spoke of "the wall of shame". President Medvedev said: "The Iron Curtain was annihilated. We hope the era of confrontation is past." Gordon Brown told Berlin: "The whole world is proud of you – you tore down the Wall and you changed the world. Because of your courage, two Berlins are one, two Germanys are one and now two Europes are one." Hillary Clinton said: "History broke through concrete and barbed wire and signalled a new dawn."
But it took Mr Gorbachev to remind the crowd of the single most extraordinary thing about the event they were commemorating – the fact that it was such a stunning surprise. He and the then-Chancellor Helmut Kohl knew the Wall would fall, he told the crowd, but like everyone else they were ambushed by the speed at which it happened. "Chancellor Kohl thought that it would happen in the 21st century," he said. "We were not very good clairvoyants. Every day we talked about how the German question could be solved – and then it went and happened on 9 November."
At the climax of the celebrations, at 8.30pm, Lech Walesa gave a gentle prod to a giant painted domino made of foam at the Brandenburg Gate, and, one by one, another 999 dominoes lined up from the Gate to the Potsdamer Platz in the centre of Berlin collapsed. A huge firework display and the "festival of freedom" were rounded off with a concert in front of the Brandenburg Gate conducted by Daniel Barenboim, another who witnessed these events at first hand.
The Stasi man: Harald Jager
The Stasi officer in charge of the Bornholmer bridge crossing-point in the Wall was confronted by a crowd of more than 20,000 East Berliners chanting "Open the gate!" He began letting the most vociferous into West Berlin. But the crowd started trampling down a fence. "Open up – let them all out," he ordered the guards. "I got around €4,000 in compensation after the Stasi was disbanded. I worked selling newspapers. After that I sold ice cream. I still find it strange that my pension comes to more than the amount I paid in – that's the social market economy. In my heart I'm still a leftist"
The dissident leader: Barbel Bohley
A dissident who helped to topple the regime feels let down. "I think it's wrong to have an expensive celebration to mark the anniversary. They should use the money to help the typhoon victims in the Philippines. When I look back, I think we as dissidents were stupid. Hardly any of us are in politics nowadays. We should have all gone to Bonn, [then the political capital], and we should have insisted on our people being given some key political jobs. But that just didn't happen. Even as people who were opposed to Communism, we were not free enough in our heads to make use of the opportunities we had."
The spin doctor: Gunter Schabowski
Now 80, he was the East German Communist Politburo's media spokesman on 9 November 1989. At a press conference that evening he mistakenly declared that the regime's plans to open the country's borders with the West would come into force "immediately". Schabowski's mistake opened the Wall. "I look back on 9 November with satisfaction and a certain amount of pride. Some people respect what I did at that press conference. With hindsight I think we did everything wrong in East Germany. Any attempt to construct a socialist society is certain to fail."
The teenager: Uta Wohlfarth
The graphic artist was 18 on the night the Wall fell. "I grew up right next to the Wall. The apartment block I used to live in backed on to it. I remember seeing the guards who used to patrol the Wall right next to our house. On 9 November, I watched Schabowski give his press conference on TV. I didn't go to West Berlin until a few days after the Wall had fallen. We went by bus into Neukölln. It is a run down-area and I was quite shocked. I thought the whole of West Berlin would be luxurious. I was quite disappointed and thought 'It's not much different from where we live in the East!'" She now lives in West Berlin.