Innovative and interesting cuisine at top young chef’s new venture
The Street Kitchen
Paget Lane, Enniskillen
I was very happy to hear an exciting young chef with an impressive CV has just taken the plunge into opening his own restaurant.
The chef is Marty McAdam, the venue is The Street Kitchen in Enniskillen.
The restaurant has started out offering only brunch and lunch, but as we arrived at lunchtime, it was clear from the queue outside that they were doing that rather well. We elected to take in some of what Enniskillen has to offer rather than joining the queue, but even when we returned later there were still plenty of punters waiting to sample the wares.
When we got inside the contrast between the old stone exterior and the fresh and shining interior was quite striking. It was a lovely dining space with quality music in the background and amazing aromas in the air. I did think they could use a bigger dining area as a chef of this calibre is bound to build quite a following and it would be hard to branch out into evening service in such a small venue. There was only seating for 14 diners plus about six more stools at the counter in front of the busy open kitchen. I am not being critical as I do think they have done all they could with the space on offer, but having had some of this chef’s culinary creations before, I feel this place will be a success.
I had a picky child with me but I had already checked the menu and confirmed with her that she would just eat some fries, as the lunch menu is compact with only about eight offerings and certainly different to anything else in the area. You won’t be getting a cheeseburger or chicken goujons in here.
The menu feels quite personal to the influences and travels the chef has encountered as he learned his craft, and when food comes from the heart it always tastes better, so I was intrigued.
Now to our food. Aside from the nice crunchy sides of fries, there were a lot of Asian influences on both our plates. I had some superb squidgy bao buns with crispy flavourful pork, vegetables and a few swishes of coriander mayo.
The other main was an intensely flavoured chicken dish with hints of satay, chilli, curry and lots of freshness from herbs and salad all sitting on a well-made naan bread.
We had a side of smoky and crispy chicken wings and some super spicy chilli cheese fries. Their chilli sauce, which they call beast relish, was a feature throughout the meal and it does have quite a kick without being unnecessarily hot.
All of the food was great except for a little dish of Asian rice that came with my food. It started okay with a few bits of fresh chilli on some rice with a hint of acidity but then after two forkfuls the whole thing was waterlogged with the acidic dressing and inedible. I will put it down to a small mistake while plating it, in an otherwise wonderful lunch.
I will also applaud the service team who seemed to be equally passionate about the new venture as they happily bounced about the restaurant chatting to and checking on customers. Regardless of the queue outside, I did not get a hint of anyone being rushed to finish their food inside.
To sum up, innovative and interesting cuisine that was well worth queueing for.